St. Peter’s Square, the heart of the Vatican and Catholicism, is not only a spiritual center. It also became a marketplace filled with souvenirs, holy cards and keepsakes. During the conclave, the process of electing a new Pope and the unique atmosphere surrounding the event transformed this iconic location into a point of interest for both the faithful and curious tourists.
A Marketplace Under the Vatican Sky
Amid the conclave and the rainy days that marked this period, visitors to the square found more than just spirituality. Among the wet cobblestones and anxious gazes toward the chimney that would announce the papal election, street vendors offered everything from rosaries to busts of the Popes. Prices varied depending on the quality and popularity of the product. For instance, a simple magnet was sold for three euros, while more intricate busts could cost up to 25 euros—though haggling was common.
Angelo, a veteran vendor, admitted that “the conclave days weren’t the best for business.” Despite discounted prices and efforts to attract customers, most visitors were more interested in the giant screens than in buying keepsakes. Interestingly, at the time, John Paul II remained the most in-demand figure, far surpassing Benedict XVI in sales—a reflection of his three-decade papal legacy.
Merchants’ Strategies: Balancing Popularity and Practicality
Decades of experience from vendors like Gianni, who had been selling in the square for 38 years, offered a clear perspective on what visitors sought. The savviest sellers focused on items that would appeal to everyone. One clever example was the creation of rosaries featuring images of John Paul II and Benedict XVI, one on each side of the medal. This product was marketed as a compromise that pleased all.
However, the business was not easy. Gianni, using a wooden suitcase as an improvised counter, expressed frustration with the competition from journalists and the apparent lack of interest from pilgrims. “There are more journalists than customers. It must be the crisis,” he remarked as he tried to draw the attention of passersby.
Beyond Souvenirs: Philately in Action
Not everything in St. Peter’s Square revolved around religious souvenirs. In the center of the square, a white truck from the Vatican Post Office (Poste Vaticane) captured the attention of a very different audience. Stamp collectors formed long lines to purchase the special Sede Vacante editions.
Antonio Prato, a Roman passionate about philately, explained: “This is a unique opportunity. When the new Pope is chosen, his portrait will be on the stamps. This is an irreplaceable memento of this moment.” For many, these stamps were not just collector’s items but tangible pieces of history.
Visitors’ Refuge: Between the Colonnade and Umbrellas
When the rain intensified, visitors sought shelter under the monumental colonnade designed by Gian Lorenzo Bernini in the 16th century. This iconic architectural design, resembling open arms welcoming the world, provided respite for those exploring the square. However, the rain also created opportunities for a different group of vendors: umbrella sellers, mostly originating from Bangladesh.
Umbrella prices ranged from 5 to 10 euros, depending on the size, but like souvenirs, everything was negotiable. Ernesto and Dévora, tourists from El Salvador, shared that “everything seemed a bit expensive” and estimated a daily expense of $85, though they admitted it could be lower with a more frugal approach.
The Conclave’s Impact on Local Commerce
The papal election has always been an event of immense media and spiritual interest. However, for local merchants, the conclave days did not necessarily translate to economic windfalls. With over 5,600 accredited journalists covering the event, the constant flow of cameras and reporters didn’t always result in sales.
For some vendors, like Gianni, the presence of mass media meant more competition than opportunity. Passersby, divided between watching the giant screens, exploring the square and seeking refuge from the rain, seemed less inclined to stop at the stalls.
A Glimpse of Life in the Square
Despite the challenges, St. Peter’s Square retained its charm as a meeting place of diversity. From the majesty of the Basilica to the free public restrooms that were a relief to many, the space offered a unique experience.
Moreover, the interactions between vendors and visitors revealed a human and everyday side that contrasted with the solemnity of the conclave. Phrases like “I’ll give it to you for 10 euros” or “This way no one is displeased” reflected the merchants’ wit and creativity as they adapted to circumstances to stay relevant.
A Unique Marketplace in a Historic Moment
St. Peter’s Square, beyond its spiritual significance, became a microcosm of life and commerce during this time. From religious keepsakes that connected visitors to their faith to stamps that immortalized a historic moment, the square offered something for everyone. Although the conclave presented challenges for merchants, it also created an unrepeatable atmosphere where history, culture and commerce intertwined.
For those who visited the square during this time, the purchased keepsakes, conversations with vendors and waiting under the rain formed part of an experience that would endure in their memories, like Bernini’s open arms welcoming them on a rainy day.
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